Hydronic Heat

This came in from someone who unfortunately, was never a client of mine.  The problem boils down to lack of proper hydronic heating design…

I had radiant floor heat put in my new home (2850SF) in Oklahoma City. It is run by propane. The propane tank was installed in Sept 2008. I moved in during Jan 2009. Since then (12 months), I have blown through 3000+ gallons of propane! The gas people are blaming the floor heat and the floor heat folks are blaming the propane company. I’m at a loss as to where to go next. I’ve spent more than $8000 for propane since last Jan. Can you give me any advice?

There are a few possible reasons:

1)     The structure/poor insulation or excessive infiltration – you may want to have a local HVAC or mechanical contractor perform an energy audit to see if your structure has infiltration or insulation issues.

2)     Heat source inefficiencies – for systems I design and sell, I typically recommend the heat source be set up and fired off by a local pro – where applicable, a combustion analysis should be performed on gas and propane-fired heat sources to insure they are operating within manufacturer tolerances and at peak efficiency.

3)     System installation issues – depending on your system design, there may be issues with the amount of tubing, spacing of tubing, water temperatures, water flow rates, floor coverings with high r-values.

Bottom line – it sounds like your system is working hard to keep your structure at temperature – and it sounds like it’s working.  (You don’t mention being uncomfortable or cold) – your home loses “x” amount of BTU’s per hour – and your system needs to put out “x” amount of BTU’s per hour to keep up.

If it’s fighting poor insulation or thick floor coverings – well, that makes it the structure, not the system.

If it’s inefficiency at the heat source – a local pro should be able to test and adjust for that.

If it’s a design/installation issue – there may be some things you can adjust like water temp and flow rate…and some other things that would be less practical to go back and change – like amount and spacing of tubing.

Bottom line - it sounds like this could have been either avoided or explained to you by a competent radiant heat designer.  Hopefully, you’ll be able to use these answers as talking points with your local contractor - hope you can get your radiant system working better soon!

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Step 4: Specify and Design your hydronic heat system.

At this point, your supplier should be able to provide you with a radiant system quote and offer any possible options.  This will help you with any project budget considerations.

Heat source

This is a critical component.  Based on your heat load estimate, climate, elevation and fuel choice - your hydronic system designer can recommend the heat sources that best suits your project needs.

Manifold/control configuration

After going over your heat loss and in conjunction with your installation methods and zoning requirements, your system designer will know the appropriate manifold and control panel and configuration for you.

Tubing - loops/zones

This is the final piece of the puzzle - by now, your hydronic heat system designer should be able to provide you with a firm quote for your radiant heating system and answer any design level and technical questions you may have.

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Step 6: Inspect your hydronic heat system upon arrival - Install your new radiant system.

Depending on the vendor and their shipper - you may be able to track your order and shipment status online.  Some shippers will call you to set up a delivery appointment.

Once your package arrives, it’s a good idea to check it for damage - if there is obvious damage you have a couple of options.  You can refuse the shipment, in cases of serious damage this is your best bet.  An alternative would be to call your supplier before the shipper leaves and discuss it with one of their support staff.  They may want to see a picture and with today’s cell phones - that may be an easy way to work out the best resolution.

Hopefully, your system arrived without damage.  Unpack your equipment and familiarize yourself with the components, the installation manual and any tubing layout diagrams they may have supplied.

When you’re ready, begin your installation.  If any questions come up during your install, hopefully the vendor you’ve chosen has support staff on hand to walk you through any issues as they arise.

I hope you’ve found this series of articles helpful.  If you have any questions or concerns, let me know.

I would be happy to help you go through this process and insure a properly designed hydronic heat system with a customized package of components.  You may contact me here through our contact form and request a project questionnaire.

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In a hydronic heat overpour or topping slab installation - radiant tubing is installed on top of an existing slab or sub floor with wire mesh, plastic clips or a track system. A thin cement slab is poured over the piping. The typical thickness is 1 1/2″ although other thicknesses are certainly possible.

This method is useful in retrofits over existing slabs, sub floors, and also post-tensioned slabs. If you are able to adjust for the door, cabinet andhydronic heatts, this is another great way to add hydronic heat to your existing home.

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